In and around our beach destinations of Kovalam and Marari

Lighthouse Beach is the most popular of Kovalam's beaches between two rocky promontories. The smaller one often has fishermen clambering over it as they try to find the best position to haul in their nets, the other provides the higher ground from which the red and white lighthouse operates, particularly beautiful after sunset as its beam illuminates the waves as land meets sea. Mornings are usually quiet with only a handful of people having an early morning dip or the keenest of sunbathers catching the first rays. Lighthouse Road provides access by car down a fairly steep hill and on reaching the sand it terminates; no transport can access the maze of alleyways which link the inner village to the beach. Many restaurants, shacks, and accommodations run parallel with the back of the beach, providing food and drink throughout the day and night. The palm trees sway slightly in the breeze, which can often be felt coming off the sea, and bathing can be done in comfort with beds and umbrellas on hire from the man under the parasol, for approximately 80 rupees per item per day.

Hawa Beach is an extension of the Lighthouse Beach. Two crescent-shaped beaches have been formed by the promontories with the sand stretching around the corner, forming a deeper bay. This section is characterised by the many dugout canoetype fishing boats that rest on the shore during the day and glow out on the horizon at night. There are great opportunities to shop for clothes, jewellery, bedspreads, cushion covers, sunglasses; you name it the list goes on, either on the beach from local beach sellers (who can be persistent) or the local shops which line the back, often with the odd coconut palm sticking out of the roof! Again, many places close by from which to obtain a drink or bite to eat and an abundance of palms as coconut groves, a sea of emerald green, sprawl effortlessly in the background. Road access can be found where the Sea Rock and Sea Face hotels overlook the beach. Between this and the Lighthouse road the heart of the village is only accessible on foot. There are a maze of alleyways at the back of the beach, between shops, eating places and accommodations, linking everyone to everything and it's like a whole new world that you wouldn't believe was there unless you'd experience it! The local people have also set up their own businesses including tailoring services, book exchanges, public telephone, money changing facilities, the internet, and even the odd film or two advertised as showing at a particular time on a certain night. A lot of the hotels and guesthouses are located here and surprisingly the area is strangely peaceful, the loudest noise to be heard, if any, coming from the local Hindu Temple. The paddy fields to the rear help to create an agricultural environment that is very rich and separates the beach areas from the higher main roads. Despite tourism coming here this is still very much a place in which the locals carry on pretty much unaffected in their daily routines, tourism living around them, which provides wonderful opportunities to experience new things and appreciate another culture and way of life.

Ashok Beach can be found slightly north of Hawa beach. The promontory between the two is the site of the newly acquired The Leela Kovalam Beach Resort (formerly the Ashok Beach Resort), its private beach open to visitors for a small daily charge. Although walkable from the hotels in the Lighthouse and Hawa beach areas, many opt for a taxi or rickshaw ride instead, costing about a pound. This section tends to be fairly quiet on most days so ideal for those who don't want to be disturbed.

Samudra Beach is a continuation of the coastline from the Ashok but is completely open to the public; no charge is made unless hiring sunbeds and umbrellas from a beach boy. This is a much longer beach, still sandy but not as picturesque as it is much narrower than the others and due to high tides there are many large rocks and sandbags place along the back to protect the hotels. The Uday Samudra Hotel uses this stretch of beach and this is a great location for a lovely meal and some evening entertainment, often in the form of live band. With a backdrop of palms to the right and the Arabian Sea stretching out to the horizon on the left, the further you walk along the more likely you are to have the beach to yourself. Places to eat and drink do however go from fewer to non-existent so take some bottled water with you. Pozhikkara is an area to the north of Samudra beach where the salt water meets fresh, forming a lagoon.

Palm Beach lies about 10-15 minute's walk to the south of Lighthouse Beach and is generally very quiet. Frequented by guests usually from the Rockholm and Palmshore Hotels although the beach is not private. Taking refreshments from either of these hotels provides a scenic view as they look down over this bay. This is a lovely little retreat with few beach sellers, maybe just some welcome fruit, papaya, coconut, pineapple and bananas chopped and served.

Somatheeram Beach is approximately 9 km south of Kovalam, at Chowara, where you will find the Somatheeram Ayurvedic Beach Resort, built on the hillside, overlooking the sea. The hotel has its own private beach with a huge statue of Jesus Christ well restored by the local community. There is a track providing access to the beach in front of the village of Somatheeram. The beach is wide and long and looks stunning but as this is a local fishing community there are no facilities and scantily clad sunbathers will meet with disapproval. Strong undercurrents are known in these waters so it's not the best beach for a swim. Ideal for walking along the shore, particularly as the sun sets into the Arabian Sea or for those with a curiosity to further experience village life.

Poovar Beach is approximately 45 minutes drive south of Kovalam. The area can only be reached by water-taxi as it glides through small backwaters to the moth of the River Neyyar. The local communities, which line the banks, are not used to seeing foreign visitors and will watch you pass with great curiosity. The beach separates the river from the sea and is quite breathtaking; miles and miles of soft pale sand and fishing boats lined up like soldiers, stretching as far as the eye can see. Because of the active fishing population the beach is not really used as a sunbathing spot or for swimming as the currents are quite strong, however some hotels have a section of beach with sunbeds and refreshment facilities for those who prefer it to lounging around the swimming pool.

Varkala Beach, approximately one and half hours drive north of Kovalam, has an assortment of little beach cafes and stalls. Often regarded as a holy place, the Janardhana Swamy Temple is a few minutes walk away and the long strip of sand is backed for miles by high, red cliffs with Yoga, Ayurvedic and spiritual centres hidden amongst the palms with scenic views from the top. A popular place at weekends, especially at sunset and promoted as a place of worship and serenity by travellers and locals alike.

Marari Beach is approximately 3 hours north of Varkala or one hours drive south of Cochin and is without doubt one of the best beaches in Kerala. Only relatively recently opened to tourism, this still remains a wonderfully virgin area; miles of soft pale sand backed by swaying palms, shared only with the local fishing community. As yet, there are no beach shacks or beach hawkers in Marari helping to preserve its pristine image and the culture of the local people, who are quite conservative in their lifestyle and have not really been exposed to Western culture.